Bobby Flagg's Home Appliance Repair

Do it Yourself Appliance Repair - Self Help, FAQ's

Gas or Electric Dryers:
1) No Power to the dryer - most likely you have a blown thermostat.  Typical machines have 4 or 5 to protect from fires.  These blow most of the time do to clogged lint vent or repeatedly doing very large loads of laundry.
2) My dryer does not spin - The dryer drum is spun by a belt, pulley and a motor.  Most common issue is the belt, but sometimes the motor does go.  Do not panic.  Motors are easily replaced and they are not as expensive as it sounds.
3) No heat - if the dryer is spinning/running, but does not generate heat more times than not it is the igniter (gas) or heat element (electric).  Additionally, operating thermostats can effect the heat and they are easily corrected.

Washer Machines:
1) Washer machine is filled with water - more times than not if your washer machine has filled with water and stopped it is a result of a safety switch.  These are located inside the washer to stop its operation if a dangerous state has occurred, such as too much water, not draining or the unit is not closed and could cause a leak.
2) Washer machine is leaking - the process for a washer machine is fairly straight forward.  Water comes in, water gets tossed back and forth by way of agitation and then water is pumped out.  The first step for a washer is to pump out old water, then allow new water in, then it washes and then pumps out.  When your washing machine shows that it is leaking is very helpful in trying to find out the leak.  Start of cycle or end of cycle - could be drain pump or drain hose.  In the middle could be water level switch or a tub crack.

**Washer and Dryers have timers that advance the cycles.  Newer machines are digital and have electronic control boards.  These timers and boards do fail over time and can be expensive to replace.  Always turn the timer in the same direction and if using a digital machine push the buttons with as little pressure as possible.  Once they fail, it is a complete replacement of the part.**

1) My refrigerator is warm - Most likely if your refrigerator is warm, then your freezer is right behind it.  Cold are starts in the freezer section and flows to the refrigerator section.  Look for frost on the back wall of your freezer.  If there is frost, that is a good sign, but will require a new defrost thermostat, timer or possible heater to allow the unit to complete its defrost/frost cycle.
2) My refrigerator is warm (fridge and freezer) and I hear a clicking noise - The clicking noise most likely is your compressor trying to start up again and generate cold air.  As part of the frost/defrost cycle the compressor is turned off and then restarted using an electric device (overload & possible relay).  This is common and does not mean you need a new compressor or new refrigerator. 
3) I hear a load fan or rattle sound coming from the fans - Most refrigerators have two fans: 1 for the compressor (condenser fan) and the other to push air from the freezer to the fridge (evaporator fan).  Both consist of motors and fan blades.  When the blades get old, they can come loose from the motor and rattle to make a loud continuous noise.  This loud noise will continue until eventually the fan stops and the unit will shut down.  Sometimes both the motor and the blade will need to be replaced, but that is not always the case and savings can be had by just replacing the blade.

Ovens/Stoves or Cooktops
1) Oven with no heat - as like the dryer, Ovens use igniters and elements to heat.  If no heat and the igniter or element is receiving the proper amount of volts, then it is time to replace.  This is a common repair that should take place every 7 years or so.  Some may get a lot longer use than others, but if you are replacing these parts sooner, it may be a symptom of a larger issue.
2) My cooktop does not spark - Gas cook top's use spark electrodes and spark modules to light.  Cooktop's will more commonly all spark when lighting or 2 will spark and 2 will not (four burner unit).  The causes of no spark can be cleaning with too much soap (use very little), bad or burnt out wire, electrode failure of spark module failure.
3) I have "Fault code F1, F4 or F7" - on my display - Oven's if digital will be able to display a fault / failure code to assist in identification of a failure.  The most common codes are F1 - a failure with your main control board ERC = Electric Range Control), F4 - a failure with your ovens internal "Oven Sensor" (this tells the oven it has reached 350' or not), and F7 - the touch pad has the buttons: bake, broil, cancel, On/Off.  When these buttons are not sending the proper signals, the ERC will display F7.  Sometimes it is a cleaning issue, moisture or etc.  The first thing to try is turn off all power to the unit (circuit breaker or plug) and then re-energize.  Many times the fault will clear itself, otherwise it will require replacement.

1) My Dishwasher is dead /  no power - Dishwashers are typically connected directly to power or plug.  If no power, first thing to check is the power.  If power is getting to the unit, then check your door.  Is the door shut, does it lock properly, if yes, then the unit needs to be taken apart and operating fuses and thermal sensors will need to be checked.  These prevent the dishwasher from overheating and causing a fire.  Lastly the control boards would need to be checked if all thermals and fuses are good, sometimes the control boards go and need to be replaced.
2) My dishwasher is filled with water - many times dishwashers will fill with water and not drain properly, because there is food, plastic or a foreign object blocking the drain path.  Before you call, check this area first or call and I will check it when I arrive.  If there is nothing clogging the drain, the next step is to check the water level switches, drain pans or the pump itself.
3) Dishwasher does not clean well - Dishwasher spray arms are fed water by a circulation pump or sump pump.  Some units use the same pump for draining as the do for spraying, but others have two.  Either way, clogs happen and cleaning sometimes fixe these issues.  Other times the pump needs to be replaced.  These are on the side of bigger jobs, and if you like the unit, you should fix it.  The cost will be far less than half of what a new unit would cost and should only take about 2 hours to complete.

**Lastly, most repairs are "no Part Repairs" and are fixed by resetting the main board or running a machines diagnostics.  The above self-help items where helpful, please let me know.  Bobby Flagg.**
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